Spotlight On Niacinamide

Niacinamide is an old time favourite ingredient in the green beauty industry. The niacinamide properties and the high tolerability even on sensitive skin, made it a star vitamin, widely used in skincare. It is naturally derived from nicotinic acid found in many cereals and brewer’s yeast. Once isolated, it undergoes a chemical reaction to become Niacinamide, otherwise known as vitamin B3 or vitamin PP.

It is one of the traditional ingredients that natural beauty formulators have studied for decades. I always opposed to including it in my range because of the high amounts of nicotinic acid, this residue can cause skin flushing, especially when you use high doses of it. Recently a raw material manufacturer launched a new version with the smallest amount of nicotinic acid residue, at that moment I knew the time has come for me to use it.

Niacinamide has been linked to skin-lightening properties, more effective than hydroquinone without the side effects, but its efficacy goes beyond this.

To me the key function is the fact that it contributes to skin homeostasis, which is the essential step to keep the skin cells functioning better. Due to this ability is an ingredient that suits every skin condition from dry to oily including the most sensitive types.

As a formulator I think it is always important for a customer to perceive an immediate effect as well as a long term benefit.  In the case of the Niacinamide, the improvement of skin’s elasticity is the first thing that users notice. Then a long list of other rewards follows:

•  Helps to repair skin cell damage UV-induced.
• Rebalances skin tone as it prevents pigment to surface the skin.
• It is an excellent antioxidant by protecting the skin against free radicals.
• Increases the amount of ceramides, collagen, filaggrin and involucrin. This helps to strengthen the skin barrier.
• And finally, an interesting effect on sebum reduction and soothing effect that reduces acne severity and minimises the risk of potential lessions.

Modern skincare is about efficacy and safety, and niacinamide embodies both. I do hope you enjoy it as much as I do.