retinol

Spotlight on: Retinol

In recent years, we have increasingly turned to online investigation to better understand the ingredients in our facial skincare products, with statistics showing February as the month where we do the most research. So, what is at the very top of that list of key ingredients that we want to google? Retinol, and the almost overwhelming number of questions we have about it. How to use it, when to start, is it suitable for everyone…The answers can seem elusive at times, with the Internet divided in its opinion and recommendations. Here I take a look at the reasons behind the...

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water in skincare

Water in skincare, how relevant is it?

Water is undoubtedly essential for good health if not for life itself, just ask your complexion! Recent studies have shown that even a 10% drop in our skin’s water content can leave it vulnerable to environmental aggressors, making water in skincare products vital for optimal skin health and beauty. But did you know that not all waters are the same? Think back to the last time you double and triple checked all the ingredients on that new beauty product you were about to buy…Did you think to check both its water content and more importantly, where it came from? If the...

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ferulic acid

Spotlight on: Ferulic Acid

Ferulic acid is one of the main ingredients popping up in skincare products these days. In fact this plant-based ingredient is touted as a ‘powerhouse’ due to its antioxidant benefits. You may have heard of it and even tried a product that contains it, but how much do you truly know about this skincare ingredient? And more importantly, does it live up to the hype? Through our ever popular hashtag #AskPedro, I have recently received several enquiries about Ferulic Acid and why products containing this ingredient tend to smell so bad (a “metallic smell” was noted by many of you). As a natural skincare...

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Niacinamide properties

Spotlight On Niacinamide

Niacinamide is an old time favourite ingredient in the green beauty industry. The niacinamide properties and the high tolerability even on sensitive skin, made it a star vitamin, widely used in skincare. It is naturally derived from nicotinic acid found in many cereals and brewer’s yeast. Once isolated, it undergoes a chemical reaction to become Niacinamide, otherwise known as vitamin B3 or vitamin PP. It is one of the traditional ingredients that natural beauty formulators have studied for decades. I always opposed to including it in my range because of the high amounts of nicotinic acid, this residue can cause skin...

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Properties of the buddleja

Spotlight on buddleja

Buddleja leaves are one of the most soft powerful ingredients in nature, no wonder I made them into one of the twelve ingredients I use accross the range. The origin: Buddleja davidii is a shrub or small-tree that comes originally from China and was introduced as an ornamental plant in other parts of the world in the late 1800’s. The genus Buddleja was named by Linné (1737) to honor the English amateur botanist Reverend Adam Buddle. The species was named after French Jesuit missionary, Pére Armand David who collected and brought to Paris specimens from China. The growth: One of the most amazing abilities of the buddleja is to adapt...

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Jojoba Oil

Twelve facts about Jojoba Oil

Jojoba oil is widely used in skincare but despite being so well known,  there are some interesting facts about it that I would like to share with you. Simmondsia Chinensis Oil is extracted from the seeds of Jojoba, a shrub belonging to the Buxaceae family that grows wild in the desert areas of Arizona, Mexico, California and Egypt. I know  the origin can be misleading with the name “chinensis” which usually refers to “originally from China” but the reality is that some botanists back in the XIX century named it wrongly and it took decades to spot the mistake. Considering...

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Squalene, ingredient spotlight

Ingredient Spotlight: Squalene

Squalene, to me, represents the perfect natural alternative to the most common ingredient in skincare, “paraffinun liquidum”which is from a chemical point of view a hydrocarbon, same as the squalene, which comes in liquid form due to its unique structure. I use the stable version which is called squalane. I made it one of the twelve key ingredients because it protects the skin, thanks to the ability to regenerate the lipid film which prevents aggression by external agents. It is also moisturising because it reduces the evaporation of water from the deeper epidermal layers (Trans Epidermal Water Loss) which I mentioned in previous posts....

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And which ones to avoid when pregnant…

After last week’s post, it is the time to focus on what not to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Some of the studies on ingredients I have found are not complete enough to establish a proper negative list. In my opinion, while some conclusive data arrives, it is better to avoid them completely. With this in mind, I created a general list, which is not exhaustive but I guess it represents a good starting point, of the ingredients, you need to remove from your beauty regime during pregnancy and throughout lactation. These ingredients can interfere in many ways with your pregnancy and...

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The origin of your ingredients

At Twelve Beauty, we live and breathe healthy skin. The idea is to make products that have a noticeable and positive impact from the first day of application. To achieve that, is essential to understand not only plant science, but also anatomy and physiology skin. My vision of modern skincare is something easy to use, efficacious but above all safe. Safety comes from research and starts from tracing the origin of ingredients. I personally work very close with the suppliers. Working on my own formulas allows me to understand better every ingredient I selected, it is not so easy for other...

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