The EU’s Red List: Understanding Endocrine Disruptors in Cosmetics and How to Avoid Them
The daily ritual of applying a moisturiser or sunscreen feels harmless, even comforting. Yet, hidden among the ingredient lists of everyday products may lie compounds capable of interfering with the body’s delicate hormonal balance. So much so that the use of endocrine disruptors in cosmetics has increasingly drawn the attention of both scientists and regulators.
As awareness grows, so does the European Commission’s commitment to identifying, evaluating, and ultimately phasing out these substances from consumer products. In this article, we’ll unpack what endocrine disruptors are, why they matter, and how you can make safer choices, including why Twelve Beauty has always been ahead of this curve, formulating consciously without them from the very beginning.
The Regulatory Landscape of Endocrine Disruptors in Cosmetics
Europe leads the world when it comes to cosmetic safety. The EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 is widely recognised as the strictest framework globally, ensuring that all ingredients undergo rigorous safety assessments before reaching consumers. While this regulation has long banned substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction (CMR), a dedicated focus on endocrine disruptors in cosmetics is a more recent development.
Since 2018, the European Commission has intensified its efforts to evaluate potential endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) used in beauty and personal care. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) plays a key role in this process, conducting independent risk assessments and issuing scientific opinions that guide EU decisions on ingredient restrictions or bans.
In 2019, the Commission released its Priority List of 28 substances suspected of having endocrine-disrupting properties. This list, often referred to as the EU’s “red list,” was divided into two categories: Group A (high priority) and Group B (requiring further data). These evaluations mark a decisive step toward greater transparency and safety in cosmetics, and empower consumers to make more informed decisions about the products they use daily.
The EU’s Top-Priority Suspects: Group A
The Group A category of endocrine disruptors in cosmetics encompasses substances that are currently under review or restricted due to significant evidence of hormonal interference. Here are some of the ingredients currently facing the highest scrutiny:
1. Propylparaben (Preservative)
Commonly used to extend product shelf life, Propylparaben belongs to a family of preservatives known for their potential to mimic oestrogen in the body. Research has raised concerns about its possible impact on reproductive health, leading to tighter concentration limits and, in some cases, its removal from EU-approved formulations. Consumers may still encounter this compound under the INCI name Propylparaben in older or imported products.
2. Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone) (UV Filter)
A familiar name in sunscreens, Benzophenone-3, also known as Oxybenzone, is used to absorb UV rays. However, mounting data suggests it may act as a hormone-disrupting chemical with potential reproductive and developmental effects. It is one of the most widely discussed high-priority endocrine disruptors in cosmetics, and environmental research has linked it to coral bleaching, prompting many brands to adopt safer, mineral-based alternatives.
3. Octocrylene (UV Filter)
Another UV filter, Octocrylene, has been found to degrade into Benzophenone, a known endocrine disruptor and potential allergen. Its persistence in the environment and possible bioaccumulation have also raised ecological concerns. The SCCS continues to review its safety profile, with several EU countries already tightening restrictions on its use in sunscreens and skincare products.
4. BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) (Antioxidant)
Used to prevent oxidation in oils and creams, BHT has come under scrutiny for its potential to interfere with thyroid and reproductive hormones. In fact, back in the early 2000s, BHT could be found in the vast majority of vegetable oils, even those marketed as natural or organic. While today its use is still permitted within certain concentration limits, its inclusion on the EU’s Group A high-priority endocrine disruptors list signals a likely shift towards stricter regulation in the near future.
In summary, Group A substances such as Propylparaben, Benzophenone-3, Octocrylene, and BHT represent the ingredients most likely to be restricted or banned as the EU’s evaluation progresses. These findings reinforce the importance of reading labels carefully and choosing brands committed to full transparency.
The Next Wave of Scrutiny: Group B and Ongoing Evaluations
The Group B endocrine disruptors in cosmetics are substances that require further scientific data before a conclusive risk assessment can be made. Although considered lower priority, they remain under close observation. Here are the top 4:
1. Butylparaben (Preservative)
Closely related to Propylparaben, Butylparaben is already listed as a Substance of Very High Concern (SVHC) under the EU’s REACH Regulation due to its potential endocrine-disrupting and reproductive toxicity. While some uses remain permitted, its long-term presence in personal care products is increasingly questioned.
2. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (EHMC) (UV Filter)
Also known as Octinoxate, this UV filter is under evaluation for its potential to mimic oestrogen and interfere with thyroid hormone function. EHMC is still found in many conventional sunscreens, although consumers seeking safer alternatives are turning towards non-nano mineral filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
3. BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole) (Antioxidant/Preservative)
Chemically similar to BHT, BHA has been shown in some studies to influence hormonal activity at very low concentrations. It’s currently permitted within restricted levels, yet its inclusion in the Group B endocrine disruptors in cosmetics signals that regulatory changes could soon follow.
4. Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) (Silicone)
Common in hair conditioners, primers, and serums, Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) provides a silky feel but has raised both environmental and health concerns. It’s persistent in the environment and bioaccumulative in aquatic life, prompting partial restrictions in rinse-off products. Its potential endocrine activity remains under scientific review.
By actively monitoring these ingredients, the European Commission ensures that evolving science continues to inform future safety standards. Consumers can stay ahead of regulation by choosing brands that already avoid these questionable compounds.
Why Endocrine Disruption Matters: The Health Connection
Understanding endocrine disruptors in cosmetics requires a basic grasp of how the endocrine system works. This intricate network of glands and hormones regulates metabolism, reproduction, mood, growth, and development. Even slight interference can have wide-ranging effects on overall health.
Endocrine disruptors work by mimicking, blocking, or altering the body’s natural hormones. Uniquely, they can exert effects even at very low doses, meaning traditional toxicity assessments don’t always predict their real-world impact.
Potential health implications include:
- Reproductive or fertility issues
- Developmental effects in children and infants
- Thyroid dysfunction
- Links to hormone-related cancers (e.g., breast, prostate)
Equally concerning is cumulative exposure. While a single cosmetic product may contain only trace amounts of an EDC, daily use, combined with exposure from food, water, and the environment, can contribute to a higher total burden. This is why Europe’s precautionary approach is so vital, and why conscious consumers are right to prioritise transparency and ingredient safety.
Our Commitment: Twelve Beauty is Free from Endocrine Disruptors
From its inception, Twelve Beauty has upheld a simple but powerful principle: never compromise health for performance. All formulations are proudly free from known or suspected endocrine disruptors in cosmetics, going well beyond current EU regulations.
We have combined years of scientific research with deep respect for nature to create products that deliver results without risk. This means avoiding not only parabens, oxybenzone, or BHT, but also any substances appearing on the EU’s Priority List of 28 endocrine disruptors.
Instead, our formulations harness the intelligence of nature through:
- Botanical extracts rich in antioxidants and phytochemicals
- Biodegradable natural emollients that respect both skin and planet
- Gentle, natural preservatives that ensure safety without synthetic interference
- Mineral UV filters that protect while remaining reef-safe
Knowledge Empowers Safer Choices
The European Commission’s action plan against endocrine disruptors in cosmetics signals a pivotal shift in how beauty safety is defined. With the SCCS continuously assessing ingredients and new bans on the horizon, consumers can expect cleaner formulations to become the new norm.
What you can do:
- Read INCI lists carefully. Watch for names like Propylparaben, Oxybenzone, Octocrylene, and BHT.
- Look for EU transparency. Products manufactured under EU law already undergo stricter oversight.
- Choose conscious brands. Support companies that voluntarily exclude questionable ingredients rather than waiting for regulation to force change.
- Trust nature’s intelligence. Opt for scientifically validated, natural alternatives that nurture both your skin and your endocrine balance.
At Twelve Beauty, we believe clean beauty should be grounded in science, not fear. By understanding the issue of endocrine disruptors in cosmetics, you empower yourself to make mindful choices – for your skin, your wellbeing, and the world you share.
